Murphy-Goode: What’s in a Name

I have been a fan of the Murphy-Goode winery for some time. From their premium wines to the standard offerings, quality speaks loudly. The ones I’ll comment on today are all reasonably priced and excellent values even at list price.

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) from Alexander Valley, Sonoma is a case in point. Murphy-Goode recommends pairing it with meat, and this one is hefty enough to overpower more timid culinary offerings, but I’d drink this one all by itself and still feel like I’d had a good meal. The 91% Cabernet Sauvignon grape is balanced with Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Merlot, almost the classic Meritage blend except for the ratios. The intent here though is to balance and enhance the Alexander Valley Cabernet fruit, one of California’s premium areas for this grape. Try to find an under-forty Napa Cab that can compete with this one, I dare you.

I brought this wine to a friend’s BBQ, and the hostess, my wife, and another cab lover covetously sipped and savored it, not willing to share it beyond our intimate circle. Good wine will do that. I’d rate it right at the top of my drinkability index.

The Hammond drinkability index (HDI), although not scientifically-proven, is a measure of not only the taste and complexity of a wine, but also how much you enjoy drinking it. When your hand slips lovingly over the bottle as you pour another glass, when you gaze fondly on its rich, warm colors, when you continue to sniff the bouquet of the empty glass, and finally sigh, contentedly, after the last sip, that is pure HDI. And that is what this wine delivers.

The 2007 Sonoma County Fumé Blanc ($11.50) is the Sauvignon Blanc grape done in the Fumé style, and is partially fermented in stainless with a judicious use of French oak to make it the perfect food wine. I paired it with seared Ahi and loved every drop. While not as aggressively acidic as the New Zealand varieties, there is a riot of tropical fruit flavors with an undercurrent of pear to please most fans of this grape.

The 2006 Sonoma County Chardonnay ($17) is another in a long line of excellent Chards from this winery. The grape’s extended hang time gave it the richness of baked apple pie, but try it with Fettuccini Carbonara, and hold the pie for later. While I’ve gotten bored with the over-oaked, 100% malolactic fermentation (MLF) Chardonnays that dot a wine shelf, the 12% MLF used here helps bring all the flavors into balance.

Finally, there is the 2006 Alexander Valley Merlot ($20), which adds a hint of Petit Verdot and a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon, but this is big, complex Merlot all the way. A great companion to the Cab above, this wine pairs best with hearty fare, but the dark fruit, herbal accents and silky tannins make it just fine on its own if you’re at a loss as to what to fix for dinner.

While it is always fun to discover a new wine from a specialty winery, a wine producer that can score hits over their entire line is the type of winery I love to seek out. Murphy-Goode is just such a winery with a family of value-priced wines that belong in your wine cellar, or on your table. Salut!

A Visit to Ceja Winery, Carneros (April 08)
A recommendation from a good friend, and the close proximity to another winery at which I’d scheduled a visit, brought me to one of my favorite wine tasting experiences. Meeting Amelia Ceja, gracious hostess and passionate wine maker of Ceja Vineyards, was the main reason this was a fun and informational visit. Amelia and Pedro Ceja are a wonderful wine and success story. Their story begins in the mid-60’s, much like other pioneers in Napa’s dynamic history. They staked all they had on a belief in their wine making skill and more, making it their way. I know, sounds like a song, but in this case it rings true.
My wife and I were treated to a fascinating story of their quest for the good life – translated as farming the land, growing grapes and a family, and then making a style of wine that reflects both the value of traditions and lessons learned since. Their philosophy puts them squarely among the believers in the effect of terroir on a wine. That includes the choices of grapes, how and when to use oak, quality oak, and when to let the grapes speak for themselves. Always a good balancing act, one I have to say, they have done with every one of their wines. In case you didn’t realize it, that doesn’t happen often.
Terroir has many meanings for many people, some believe only a particular area will produce wines of a distinctive nature, and that the qualities of the soil, sandy, loam, clay-like will influence the flavors found in the wine. Others believe that other regions with similar, if not exact qualities including the weather, longitude will produce similar wines of a high quality. At its most basic, a particular terroir will dictate what grapes will grow best and show their best qualities.
Partly, this goes back to the adage, “great wine is made in the vineyard”, which also has its interpreters. Very little in the wine world is as simple as it seems. The Carneros viticultural region receives its maritime influence from being at the top of San Francisco Bay, and spreads on either side of Highway 37, which skirts the upper bay. Pinot Noir does extremely well here, as do Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
We started with the Sauvignon Blanc, which is a very popular and awarded wine. It was easy to tell that from the nose even before tasting. Lots of fruit, neutral oak for the aging, wonderful acidity, mouth feel from creamy notes – not buttery. In short you have the kind of body often provided by Semillon, but with citrus notes common to the Sauvignon Blanc grape.
We put the wine to the test at dinner that evening at Celadon restaurant in the town of Napa, also suggested by our friend, Judy Diaz. Considering Judy’s hit ratio I was willing to take stock tips from her. I had the Sea Bass, something rare in New Mexico, resting on a bed of forbidden rice, which is even rarer. I later learned the rice came from one spot in Japan and received its black color from the squid that populated that coastal enclave. True or not, it made a great story. The fish did better than melt in my mouth with rich flavors bursting through. The Ceja wine tracked every bite and every flavor. I couldn’t have chosen better. What I loved was that when I had the crème brulee with caramelized banana, the wine paired like it was made for desserts. How’d they do that? Oops, should I have given you a food-alert warning on this?
Their Chardonnay was one of the few non-French version I knew would be a good food wine, something most buttery, malolactic fermentation, heavily-oaked chardonnays cannot be. There is nothing wrong with the style as long as you aren’t trying to pair them with a wide range of foods.
It just got better with the reds. Since you should check this out on your own, I’ll only mention one, the 2005 Ceja Vino de Casa Red, a blend of Pinot Noir and Syrah. This is their gateway wine into the Ceja reds, and priced very well. If you don’t have any food to pair with this wine, not to worry, this wine is food. Both grapes in this wine are also offered separately, and both excel, which is why the blend works so well. How many times do you get a smile on your face after sampling the wine’s nose? Well, get ready. I only wish I could have had a separate meal to test drive this red, but definitely, next time.
Check out their website at http://www.cejavineyards.com/ it is very well done with lots of information on their wines and wine philosophy. And if you don’t think they’re a winemaking family, check out the family photos. Their traditions should be copied by many of the other wineries in Napa. Salut!

Wines of Enchantment: My New Wine Guide
In case you wondered where I’ve been the last few months it was busy completing my first wine book and setting up my new Wine Maestro package of wine talks/wine dinners. I apologize for leaving you in the lurch. Now that I’m back I have much ground to cover, many fascinating wines to discuss, and what wine and food pairing is all about.
My new wine book is called Wines of Enchantment: A Guide to Finding and Enjoying the Wines of New Mexico. Yes, I know, long title. It is available as an E-book at my literary website, www.Jim-Hammond.com. Look under Hammond on Wine for the link and payment button. I also plan to blanket the New Mexico wineries with autographed copies.
This all began as a wine pamphlet for the first Corrales Quilt & Wine Fair (you read that right), which was held Mother’s Day weekend. I gave a series of wine talks Saturday and Sunday, which were quite enjoyable. This was nothing like teaching engineers about computer networks and architectures, which I did in a previous life. At the fair, I had attentive attendees who even wore smiles.
The only problem was that this was the first time I’d talked about wine without having a glass of same in my hand. A whole new discipline, because the more I talk about wine the more I want to drink it, and I was so ready for a glass after the last session each day. Fortunately, my many winemaker friends helped out with generous pours of the wines brought for tasting. I left each day sated and happy that the attendees had learned something about wine appreciation that would, hopefully, enrich their wine life.
The wine pamphlet had meanwhile grown in size and coverage until it became a New Mexico wine guide. Pamphlet, indeed! It includes almost 20 pages on how-to-taste wines, information on the care and feeding of wines, wine and food pairing, and summaries of every winery in New Mexico. The table of contents is reprised below for those interested in the wine guide.
The Wine Maestro idea, cooked up between my wife and I, involves my giving wine talks, recommending wines for a wine dinner, or creating a wine dinner for clients that included my providing the catering, serving, tasting notes, wine selection, and also discussing each wine. I’ve done several of these so far with great success, so my involvement in wine has quadrupled since I began my wine blog.

Still, I don’t want to leave my readers out in the cold – is ether-space chilly? I’m re-dedicating myself to keeping it going, as you will begin to see starting this week. Salut!

Wines of Enchantment
Contents
Introduction 1
History of New Mexico Wine 3
Wine Tasting Guide 9
The Why of Wine Tasting 9
The Taste Test: Discovering Your Wines 11
Wine Dos and Don’ts 31
Laying Down Wine 31
Selecting a Wine Cellar 35
Wine Preparation 37
Wine Equipment Essentials 38
Wine and Food 41
White Wines 43
Red Wines 45
Food and Wine Pairing Basics 49
Wine Tasting in the Land of Enchantment 51
New Mexico Wine Map 52
Santa Fe/Taos Region 53
Albuquerque Region 61
Alamogordo Region 68
Las Cruces/Deming Region 72
Appendix A: New Mexico Grapes 77
White Wines 77
Rosé Wines 79
Red Wines 79
Sparkling Wines 80
Dessert Wines 80
Fortified Wines 80
Appendix B: Wine Events 83
Northern Region 83
Southern Region 84

This is another article I began before my blog was created. As before, I’m including dates for the actual tasting since the chronology would otherwise be hopelessly confused.

November 2007

Late last fall I had the pleasure of touring wineries in the Alexander Valley viticultural region, long one of my favorites. Many years ago, before Alexander Valley Vineyard’s Sin Zin became popular, I’d sampled this Zinfandel, intrigued by the decadent illustration that harkened back to Bacchus’ early wine drinking days. Since the price then was so attractive – no, I won’t make you envious by indicating how low – I bought six cases, glutton that I am.

Luckily I had a large wine cellar so I was able to enjoy the last bottle even more than the first. By that time, Alexander Valley Vineyard had attracted a lot of attention, as had many other vineyards that dotted Alexander Valley road (Hwy 128), and prices were not as attractive. The price of fame, sigh!

That memory firmly entrenched; I gladly accepted Melanie Dougherty’s invitation to taste some of the valley’s best wines. Melanie is the publicist for some of the local wine producers. I’d met her previously for a tasting of Murphy-Goode wines at the Inn of the Anasazi. (See my blog, A Tasting at the Inn.) The locus of this tasting was to be Stonestreet Winery.

Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate is located near the entrance to Alexander Valley where the long sweeping curve of Alexander Valley road straightens out and presents the rolling terrain and gentle curves of the main part of the valley. The winery entrance is one of the longest in Sonoma, tree-lined and now showing the golden colors of fall. A painter’s light pierced each grape leaf, illuminating the delicate tracery of vein and stem. Up ahead we came upon the low-slung winery spread against the foothills some distance from the road.

We were greeted by Melanie and Graham Weerts, the wine master for Stonestreet. Graham traveled a long way to become Stonestreet’s wine maker; South Africa, to be exact. Tall, slim, and fit he presents a dynamic figure. His approach to wine making is also dynamic, as became obvious after talking at length with him.

He is a firm believer that terroir is significant, and only the grapes best served by a unique slope, elevation, soil, and weather pattern should be grown, not what suits the latest fads and market demands. This philosophy is more in keeping with Old World wine styles, but also embracing the modern techniques in wine making that assure higher quality and more consistent product year after year. All the wines he poured bear out this philosophy.

At the tasting table a number of white and red wine glasses were arrayed, ending in a very large wine glass that could have doubled as a flower vase. Later I would learn why. We tasted two whites and four reds, and all of them were impressive. The two I’ll focus on are the 2005 Red Point Chardonnay and Christopher’s Cabernet Sauvignon. These wines come from the Mayacamas mountain chain that separates Alexander Valley from the Pacific.

The Mayacamas name most likely came from the Wappo Indians. The range was created from the lava flow of an exploding volcano. Not to worry, this was a long, long, time ago. The rocky soil, enriched by the volcanic ash, stresses the grapes, yielding smaller, intensely-flavored fruit, which are evident in both these wines.

The 2005 Red Point Chardonnay is 100% estate grown using the subtle caress of French oak to permit the wonderful fruit flavors to be revealed. A good food wine, retaining good acidity and bright fruit flavors with good balance. Robert Parker rated it 92 points and I’d have to agree.

By the time we came to the last red, a single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, grown at 2400 feet, I had gotten more and more excited by the reds. Now we were primed to sample Graham’s signature red. There is only one negative I can think of for Christopher’s Cab, it makes the ones that preceded it pale in comparison. It definitely needed room to breathe, hence the very large glass, which barely contained the nose. Big as the nose was, the taste was bigger with flavors of lush ripe fruit, blackberries, cassis, spice notes and a whole lot more. It’s the kind of wine Opus One only aspires to, and flavors like Silver Oak used to bring to the table. Boy, I miss those days.

Did I keep my affection for this wine a secret? Check them out at http://www.stonestreetwines.com. Highly recommended.

My next stop, also suggested by Melanie was Field Stone Winery. It had been many years since I had last tasted wines there, so I was eager for an update. When I got there I met Scott Sabbadini, the assistant winemaker. Scott very graciously took me through a barrel-tasting of a Syrah that they were testing in four different cooperages. These included American, Hungarian, Rumanian, and Polish oak barrels. Not too surprisingly each one tasted like a different wine. Selecting the right type of oak, deciding on the best toasting level, and even the assembly design all influence the final product, not to mention how long to let the wine age in oak. Getting an opportunity to taste the theory and see how different the results could be suggests how daunting the wine maker’s task once the grapes are in.

Of course, so much theory makes me thirsty, so next I went into the tasting room. I’ve always had affection for their reds and found particular favor in their 2005 Alexander Valley Sangiovese. Saucy strawberry notes were complimented by black cherry and plum. I can’t wait to pair this one with food.

Field Stone winery, http://www.fieldstonewinery.com/ is currently updating their website, but be patient, it’s worth the wait. Salut!

A Tasting At the Inn

This is the first of a number of articles begun late last year before I had created a blog and dated so my readers won't be confused, hopefully. My thanks to David and Melanie for their patience while I got my act together.

September, 2007

Late last September, I received an invitation to do a wine tasting of Murphy-Goode wines at the Inn of the Anasazi in Santa Fe. For those of you not familiar with this restaurant, or who the Anasazi were (yes, they are definitely in the past tense), read on. The Anasazi were an ancient tribe living in four corners region of New Mexico. They either moved or died out in the 12^th century, but left many artifacts of their civilization, including elaborate cave dwellings.

The Inn of the Anasazi is a beautiful upscale hotel and restaurant that meticulously re-created some of their art and mystique. Artisans are definitely at work in the restaurant, and it’s one of the most acclaimed in a city that takes pride in its restaurants.

Since I almost never pass up a chance to go to Santa Fe, ditto the Inn, this was impossible to turn down. I was met there by David Ready, Jr., the winemaker, and Melanie Dougherty, the publicist for Murphy-Goode and many other quality wineries. As I suspected, neither the food nor the wine disappointed.

David Ready, Jr. is the son of Dave Ready, one of the Murphy-Goode founders that include Tim Murphy and Dale Goode. This is definitely a family-run business, and shows the care and love they’ve put into the winery. Producing around 140,000 cases, this is not a small operation by any means. They also have enough estate grapes to produce outstanding single-vintage wines, which always begin with good fruit.

Four wines were served, an elegant Chardonnay, light on the French oak, 25% stainless fermented. A Chardonnay done in the French style must start with good grapes if it isn’t going to be tricked up with heavy oak.

This was followed by a well-balanced Cabernet Sauvignon called Sarah’s Block, a classic Alexander Valley Cab with black raspberry fruit. Lastly, two very good but different Zinfandels. Both went quite well with my buffalo burger, laced with crisp-seared bacon and gorgonzola to stand up to the Zins. The Liar’s Dice Zinfandel has rich blackberry with peppery notes, and lots of taste without being a fruit bomb. Snake Eyes Zinfandel was a well structured and balanced wine with good fruit and depth.

All through the meal I enjoyed the animated conversation and David’s passion for his wines. Well, that’s as it should be; good wine does require passion. That and patience and attention to detail often result in good to great wines. During the conversation, the talk turned to the impact of oak on wine. David mentioned working with a wood (stave) maker of American oak in Minnesota that can craft it to provide the characteristics of French oak using computers to adjust how they bake and/or add ingredients to the curing process.

Beginning in the mid-1990’s, American oak has seen a renaissance in cooperage. Some coopers suggest this comes from the use of French barrel-making techniques, bending and toasting over a fire, for example. One of the factors that make French and American oak barrels different is the way barrels are assembled. In France, staves are hand-split or use a hydraulic wedge. The lower leakage rate of American oak allows the staves to be sawn, saving considerably on labor costs and waste.

Recently, I began putting more focus on oak and how it influences a wine’s taste portfolio. Many vintners bludgeon their Chardonnay with oak until oak and splinters seem to predominate. Choosing French oak, blending a portion of the fruit in stainless, not going the 100% maloactic fermentation route, and working with grapes that bring out the fruit flavors all went into making the Murphy-Goode Chardonnay a much better wine and better food wine. Check them out. Website: http://www.murphygoodewinery.com/

To Blend, Or Not To Blend; That Is the Question

Shakespeare aside, a very real question for the wine maker is whether ‘tis nobler in mind to persevere against the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune, or to take grapes from a single vineyard against a sea of troubles to make a perfect wine. But if that isn’t a consummation devoutly to be wished then they must select from different vineyards the right qualities of the grapes to make the perfect wine. I just hope the bard isn’t rolling over in his grave for the grievous liberties I’ve taken.

Generally, a wine created from a single vineyard is owned by the winery, and can be used to make a wine if it has all the qualities they are seeking. Alternately, that vineyard can be the basis of a blend by selecting grapes from other vineyards the winery owns, or out-sourcing for the qualities that are lacking in their own grapes.

If the vineyard is truly unique, the wine maker can use it for a single vineyard wine alone, or as part of a blend, with the balance used for a limited production or reserve selection. In that way they can offer a more expensive version to please the connoisseur and extend its availability in a blend that preserves its best qualities. More bang for the buck to unearth a vulgar phrase.

Even after that decision is made the alchemical talents of the wine maker are truly tested to select and blend the right crops of grapes in the correct ratios to produce a unique blend. Done right, the blend can be more expensive than a single vineyard wine, and it may be the standard the winery chooses year after year. This, of course, is the route taken by many French wine makers, who very seldom rely on one grape to represent their signature wines.

The classic example of a domestic blend is a Meritage wine. These blends will typically include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot, but may also include Petite Verdot and Malbec, two grapes now experiencing popularity through their separate bottling. Of course Argentina’s Malbecs have been popular for some time.

The other form of blending uses the same grape, such as a Zinfandel, but sources them from different lots, or different vineyards. Typically these are all within a particular viticultural region, but not always. However, in most European countries, the regulatory bodies require the grapes to come from a particular area. Even blends there often have to follow general guidelines before they can put their name on the wine. In the U.S., there are less restrictions and experimentation much more widespread.

One exception is that to qualify a wine as Zinfandel, for example, a certain minimum of that grape must be present. Otherwise it must be identified as a blend, and the name accepted by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB). Considering some of the names I’ve seen used, the group must be pretty liberal.

Large production wine producers often blend each year to produce a wine with their own “signature taste”. For example Kendal-Jackson has produced their Chardonnays with similar oak contact and maloactic fermentation to produce their signature oaky, buttery Chardonnays. Since many consumers look for K-J wines for that reason they can sell a lot of wine. An economic as well as ascetic choice.

In California, the Merlot grape for many years was grown only to blend it with Cabernet Sauvignon to soften the sometimes harsh tannins of a 100% Cabernet. Clos du Bois decided to give their Merlot grape its own bottling many years ago, and sold out each year. Other wineries took note and now Merlot is a standard offering of most red wine producers. Ironically, some Cabernet Sauvignon is often added to give the Merlot more structure. This, of course, came as no surprise to Bordeaux wine makers who have produced great wines from the Merlot grape for centuries, Sideways not withstanding.

The Semillon grape is another example of a blended grape, often added to Sauvignon Blanc to produce a fuller, richer wine. On its own, this grape is the basis for the great Sauternes of France, but it does not often possess all those qualities in domestic wines unless they are crafted as late harvest. There are exceptions to this; the Alhgren 2004 100% Semillon is a very versatile food wine. It paired perfectly with Thanksgiving turkey, and I’ve found few whites that matched so well.

So to blend is the choice of most wine makers, either with the same grapes at different locations, or with the addition of different grapes to improve and add complexity to the principle grape, and there are some classical blends, such as in Bordeaux, that many wine makers produce. And with any luck you won’t have to endure any more of my Shakespearean analogies. Salut!

Wining and Dining in Kauai

In the past, restaurants offering fine wines in Hawaii were few and far between, not to mention expensive. Overly warm red wines of dubious lineage were the norm at many mid-range eateries. That has changed. The choices of both red and white wines are more plentiful, and the prices are close to what we would expect on the mainland.

Many of the supermarkets now carry a good representation of California wines at near-California prices. California being the nearest cousin in temperament and culture has provided the islands with a rich harvest of fine wines to choose from. Australian wines are also plentiful and at good prices. French and Italian wines also make their appearance, but due to higher transportation fees are more costly.

High-end restaurants do make the biggest splash in terms of cuisine and wine cellar-listings, but many mid-list restaurants are now following suit. It is also possible to enjoy excellent food at even the most pre-possessing cafes. At the Hanapepe Café in the artistic village of Hanapepe, an outstanding vegetarian meal can be had for only a few dollars. Since they allow you to bring your own wine, nay – encourage it, an exquisite lunch of curried cauliflower soup and some of the best fish sandwiches on the island can be had to complement a tart, acidic Sauvignon Blanc for a fraction of the price almost anywhere else. That can be followed by a tour of the many art galleries along the main road for a mini-Canyon road experience, and you’re on the Garden Isle of Kauai!

In short, paradise has gotten more toney without getting too pricey. Even when price is no object, it is hard to beat Roy’s restaurant – renowned throughout the Hawaii islands – for that special occasion. We recently celebrated our 25^th anniversary there by sitting at a table festooned with streamers of ribbon to document the event, and gobs of personal attention. The islands it should be mentioned take honeymoons, anniversaries, and birthdays as the main events they should be in our lives.

Kauai’s North shore is dotted with fine eateries that range from casual island cuisine to elaborate restaurants offering heart-stopping views and alas, sometimes heart-stopping prices. On a budget your best bet would be looking for restaurants that allow you to bring your own wine, of which there are several, or cooking your own in room meals.

Look for accommodations that provide a kitchen, but ask about how well appointed they are if you love to cook. Since many visitors to the islands hate to cook on vacation, some of the kitchens offer little more than a place to mix your rum and fruit drinks and store your wine and liquor.

Both North and South shore have excellent fish markets where Ahi, Ono, and other island delicacies can be had for a fraction of restaurant prices. And now that a wide range of fine wines are available virtually everywhere on the island, the perfect accompaniment to island fare can be had at a reasonable price.

Sauvignon Blancs from California and Australia are readily available and better compliment the island fare, although Chardonnays are plentiful. I have not seen an infusion of New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs as yet, but they should soon make their appearance. Pinot Grigio is another good choice for many of the delicately flavored fishes including Wamoo, a buttery fish that, grill-cooked, will have you scrambling for more.

Red wines require a bit more caution. Many red meats are available at a modest premium, and most resorts offer barbeque grills. However, due to the constant high temperatures and humidity – you remember humidity, that’s the thing most locations outside New Mexico offer – it does not take much exposure to ruin a good Cabernet Sauvignon or Zinfandel. In other words, chose your wine store carefully, and if in doubt use one of the major supermarkets. Most have a good selection, good prices, and are air-conditioned.

That caution also applies to restaurants. We went to one Koloa café on the South Shore that provides good island fare and an extensive wine list, but the first red I selected had gone bad from the high heat of its naturally-cooled interior. All the reds they served were at least 10 degrees too warm. Nothing blunts the flavor a red wine like serving it much above 65 degrees, like the ones we sent back.

That being said, most experiences on Kauai and the other islands of the Hawaiian chain are greatly enhanced by the inclusion of wine with your meal, and often at reasonable prices. Of course the best deals are those rum-inspired concoctions with the umbrellas and pineapple slices sticking out the top of every imaginably-shaped glass. Just remember they sneak up on you a lot quicker than a glass of vino. Salut!