Saturday, January 5, 2013

Captain Andy Sunset Wine Cruise




A sunset cruise around the garden isle of Kauai sounds like a no-brainer. Who wouldn’t want to go? But there are sunset cruises and then there is the one Captain Andy sails aboard the Southern Star that navigates the Na’Pali coast. This is the Cadillac of sunset cruises for many reasons.

The Southern Star is a 65 foot catamaran with its own chef’s kitchen, wide bar in the main cabin, and generous room for the passengers to enjoy the run of the boat. The food prepared and served on board by executive chef Stephen. The cuisine is what one might expect from a fine restaurant, but with unparalleled views of one of the most stunning coasts in the world; the Na’Pali coast. 

Sheer walls of verdant green, jagged cliffs and lush valleys are interspersed with towering waterfalls that descend thousands of feet to hidden pools and streams. The cry of sea birds blends with surging surf crashing against the jumbled rocks below.

Unfortunately for us, this time the sea was too rough to follow the north coast, so Captain Rick advised us he’d have to track the southern coast. He asked, “Did we still want to go?” We were still on for the cruise, knowing it was our safety and comfort uppermost in his mind. I also knew from previous cruises that the wine would be good and the Mai Tai and Sneaky Tiki cocktails would be strong and authentic. 

Once onboard I enjoyed my Mai Tai with fresh pineapple and salt spray at the fantail, um, correction, my first Mai Tai. I decided not to compound things by trying the Sneaky Tiki, but checked out the wines they had at the bar. I sampled a few and decided we were in for a good time.

The Caesar and Island salads went quite well with the Talbott Logan Chardonnay, which was from Sleepy Hollow vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands, a premier wine region in California. A nice balance between French Oak and stainless brings out the richness in the grape without bludgeoning it. The melon, pear and pineapple would seem to be custom-made for an island cruise, and it often earns 90 points from wine specialists. We were off to a good start.

The dinner was excellent; NY Strip from beef on the Big Island, sliced potato and taro root, asparagus and carrots and big, flavorful prawns. A classic surf and turf, made all the better with a Kali Hart 2007 Pinot Noir from the Monterey coast. This one is also from Talbott Winery, which has a way of making mid-priced wines taste like high-priced and this Pinot was no exception.

Aged in French oak for 9 months it exhibits flavors of red current and red berry with plumy notes. The vanilla flavors and oak are nicely integrated assuring easy drinking and made to handle the shrimp and beef. I confess I indulged a lot, but I’m blaming it on the sea air, great views and wonderful food and wine pairing. 

If this sounds like your kind of cruise, one bit of advice: reserve early. A sunset cruise this good fills up early and you don’t want to left on shore when Captain Andy sets sail. Aloha!

Thursday, December 27, 2012

Slate Street Café: A Great Place to Wine & Dine



The night after Christmas I joined the Gonzales family for dinner at Slate Street Café. I had previously met Rafael Gonzales at his Broken Eyes Studio in Los Lunas back in September and was fascinated with his paintings. Do check out his studio when you are next in Los Lunas. I was there to drop off copies of my new wine book, Wines of Enchantment: the Centennial edition, including one that would be a Christmas present for his daughter, Theresa. (See how far I’ll go to sell a couple of books?)

Later Rafael contacted me and wanted to meet my wife and I for dinner in Albuquerque after Christmas; and did I know any good restaurants? Since I do restaurant reviews for Albuquerque Arts & Entertainment magazine, I had plenty of suggestions that I whittled down to four of my favorites and he chose Slate Street Café. The café is a good choice, both for the food and the wine.

Myra Ghattas, the owner provides comfort food made in imaginative ways with fresh ingredients and paired with fine wines. She is also a certified sommelier, and it shows in both her wine list and wines-by-the-glass list.  The wine markups are also modest, proving she understands the value of enjoying wines with her food. She also makes sure her servers are trained and knowledgeable about the food and wine. Our waiter made many thoughtful suggestions, which we took him up on.

Theresa selected a wine from Lake County, California using the Lemberger grape from Washington State. Not to be confused with Limburger cheese. Thankfully it wasn’t smelly on the nose, although the odd name does give some grape growers pause. Steele Winery did something very clever with the name and uses a variation of its ancient name: Blau Frankisch, literally “blue grape from France.” The wine is from Steele Winery’s Shooting Star series and they call the grape Blue Franc. That was when I noticed the label was a blue French Franc. Hmmm, maybe too cute?

The wine had dense tannins and a pleasing mouthfeel, cherry and spices and black pepper. It went well with the bruschetta, one of my favorites at the café, and the Portabella French fries; another favorite. Both appetizers made the rounds at our table of six, followed by accolades for the chef.

I decided on the ribeye to go with the 2010 Kunde Cabernet Sauvignon, a dependable mid-range Cab from Sonoma. The wine exhibits dark fruit with fig-like richness, black pepper, rounded vanilla notes and fine tannins. Kunde is a very consistent winery going back four generations with a fifth ready to take over the 1,850 acre property in the Kenwood region of Sonoma. 

The portions here are generous so when our waiter came back to ask about desserts he was not surprised when we said we had no room left. Good food, good wine and good company made this a very memorable meal.

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Mediterranean Gourmet: An Intimate Luau




When is a luau, not a luau? The answer is when it is at the Mediterranean Gourmet in Hanalei, Kauai. Having done several reasonably good interpretations of this feast made legendary by the royal luaus of the Kamehameha kings, my wife and I had the good fortune to try an intimate luau at the Mediterranean Gourmet last year while at our timeshare in Princeville, Kauai.

This year was a first for us; returning for a second luau at the Mediterranean Gourmet. We also were celebrating our thirtieth anniversary. That was a first, too. There are four reasons why I recommend this so highly; the location, the food which is always fresh and good, the intimacy which brings us closer to the performers and the Hawaiian family that performs here every year.

Family Hula Halau is authentic, fun to watch and steeped in the traditions of Kauai. Coppin Colburn, the patriarch of the family, is a good musician and performer who connects with his audience as soon as he takes the mike. He also enjoys playing with fire, twirling twin-lit batons so fast a ring of fire appears at each hand. They even performed a special dance to honor our 30th anniversary, which made our celebration even better.

The Mediterranean Gourmet has an imaginative wine list that is well-paired to the cuisine. After our tropical drinks, perfectly made, we ordered a bottle of Don Olegario, Albariño, which soon became two.  This Spanish white is one of my favorite wines. The Albarińo grape comes from the Rias Biaxas region of Spain, which is just above Portugal on the Atlantic coast. The coastal influence yields wines with great acidity, minerality and bold fruit flavors. I’m reminded of French Sancerre when I drink these wines, but at a much lower price point.

Imad Beydoun, the owner, takes personal charge, overseeing that all the dishes are in place and continually replenished. From first pass through the line until last there will be freshly made dishes of Kahlua Pork, various seafood and chicken dishes and an array of Mediterranean cuisine-inspired entrees. The servers are well-trained and attentive, which enhances the intimate feel of this luau.

At the end of their performance, everyone is asked to join hands while we all sing Aloha Oe. If you are not deeply moved by this rendition of one of Hawaii’s most beautiful songs, you should check your pulse. Hearts are warmed, new friends are made, and everyone leaves with their spirits lifted. This is the only luau I’d return to time after time because it is Kauai’s best luau.

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Bouchons Hanalei Grill & Sushi Bar




Teamwork is usually associated with team sports, but that is one of the things that most impressed me about Bouchons Hanalei Grill and Susi Bar. Everyone seems to be on the same page: making your dining experience fun and delicious from first drink to the last bite of dessert. Located in the town of Hanalei on the north shore of Kauai, it rests in the heart of Hanalei Bay, one of the most picturesque and photographed spots on earth. 

The location and atmosphere are perfect as my wife and I both love fresh seafood and views that include Mt Waialeale, which channels water down its long mountain streams to Hanalei Valley below. I already knew from previous visits that we would enjoy a night out at the grill. The second story restaurant is open to mountain views and fresh sea breezes. One has to be on the beach in Hanalei Bay to get a better perspective of what it’s like to be in this timeless place on Kauai’s North Shore.

Tyler, Chris and Jeffrey run the sushi bar and serve up some of the best raw seafood I’ve ever had. In fact, I seldom go for the sashimi and stick with the less challenging sushi; even when I’m in the islands. Not any more, when I can have Hamachi belly that melts in the mouth and salmon that makes me wonder why I always cook it. The coconut prawn in sauce were divine, and this was after I’d already had their calamari and crab cakes. 

The sashimi and prawn were complimentary and much appreciated as our plan to have appetizers and a drink before making dinner turned into a full dining experience. Besides we were having too much fun to leave early. Bouchons has that affect on folks.

Special cocktails, a good if brief wine list and premium sake choices provide all the accompaniment needed to make it work. After a Chopin martini we settled on glasses of Erath Pinot Gris. Oregon has a way with Pinot Gris, also known as Pinot Grigio that few can rival. Is it really fair that Oregon excels at Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris?

We finished up with a grasshopper pie, a big wedge with fudge dripping down the sides. I felt I was reliving my childhood when Country Club mint chocolate chip was my favorite ice cream. Only this was way better.

Mike at the bar and Mike the waiter sharing their enthusiasm for the place plus our waitresses taking our picture or making recommendations all reinforce what makes this place so special. Teamwork and a love of what they do. This is the number one place to go for great food, atmosphere, and fun. Be part of the team at Bouchons, I guarantee you’ll wish you’d joined sooner. Aloha!

Thursday, August 30, 2012

Avoiding heat, dust and a brutishly long line at the Bernalillo Wine Festival




It’s that time of year again and luckily the Bernalillo Wine Festival has a solution for those ghastly long lines. It is now possible to order tickets online and only pay one dollar extra for the privilege of getting in earlier and tasting the wines of 20 wineries. Check the website for all the details. This is very good news, but the organizers can’t do much for the heat. That would be your concern.

That means drinking lots of water along with your wines. Not to worry, it won’t dilute the wines you are drinking, but it will keep heatstroke from being an issue. A ratio of 3 to 1, water to wine is recommended for hot dry days, which is usually what we get at summer’s last gasp. Proper sun protection and hydration can make the festival a lot more fun, so always keep this in mind.

Personally, I’m planning on heading over to Milagro Vineyards in Corrales instead. There will be plenty of shade, places to sit and relax and have good conversations on wine. That plus some of the best wine New Mexico has to offer makes this my choice for Labor Day weekend.

The Hobsons recently released their 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon. Here are their wine notes: “The wine exhibits aromas of red currant, eucalyptus and mint along with flavors of boysenberry and currant all followed with round tangy acidity and fine tannins on a long finish.“ The wine has been in the bottle for two years after aging two years in French oak. At Milagro, they believe in only releasing wines when they are ready, even if it means holding them out longer than other wineries.

The other reason to go to Milagro is the just released 2010 Zinfandel. If you are one of those that think only California can make a great Zinfandel, think again. This one is bound to change your mind. So come celebrate the end of the harvest, which came earlier this year with good yields and that’s good news. I’ll be there enjoying the fruits of the harvest so maybe I’ll see you there.

Or you could be waiting in a long line in Bernalillo and sucking down water to keep hydrated. It’s your choice after all. Salud!